1940's: New Look, a New Era

The Nineteen forties were dominated by the war. With the invasion of Poland, the world began to change. It shortly became obvious that the war would engulf more of the world and last longer than World War I. Soon with the military power sweeping through Europe, the United States felt pressure to enter the war. With the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, the United States was thrust headlong into WWII, not just in Europe, but with the Japanese as well. During this period little thought was given to arts and culture and the normal politics of the time. All efforts were focused on winning the war. Films, novels and fashions either supported the war or took influence from military ideas. Even Hollywood was preoccupied, its films serving as powerful propaganda and morale-boosting devices. Some of the greatest stars of the day shipped out with the USO to entertain the troops; the pin-up girl became a phenomenon. Thousands of U.S. soldiers clamored for photos of Betty Grable, whose film studio had her legs insured for $1 million.

The hallmarks of fashion in the early 1940s included an austere silhouette with narrow hips, padded shoulders, and all manner of hats. The working-class look of icons such as Rosie the Riveter became chic, as women of all social standings joined the war effort. They kept things going at home, taking over the jobs—and the closets—of departing husbands and other male relatives. Class barriers fell and people dressed down. It was considered gauche to be showy during a time of shortage. Designers flexed their creative muscle—even creating beautifully decorated gas masks for eveningwear.

Overseas, leather was now restricted to military use, so shoe designers were forced to be increasingly clever. Every imaginable material was incorporated into shoes, but reptile skins and mesh were the most successful substitutes. Cork or wood-soled "Wedgies" were another staple. Trims and embellishments were, by necessity, kept to a minimum. Women everywhere used household items, including cellophane and pipe cleaners, to create festive shoe decorations. Everything was recycled, giving rise to such clever advertising as Vogue’s “Make Do & Mend” campaign. Factories were converted from consumer goods production to military production. U.S. rationing rules limited the height of shoe heels to one inch and allowed for only six color choices; stockings were also unavailable. Magazines and beauty salons helped out by offering tips on how to paint legs with back seams and tans using makeup. This being unpractical as an ongoing ritual, ankle socks became increasingly popular.

When the war finally ended the Cold War began. The United States and its allies found themselves in a psychological and military duel abroad. This was a period of scientific and technological activity, with both sides pouring time, money, and personnel into the great competition for military, scientific, and psychological superiority.

In 1947, Christian Dior introduced the New Look, a return to classic femininity with a nipped waist and wide skirts. There were Edwardian jackets, tight trousers, and bowler hats for men.

The History of Shoes: Superstition

Shoes - wearmarks

Wearing the toes of your shoes meant you will spend money as you go. Mean people were thought to wear their shoes out on the inside of the sole; whilst extravagant types wore their shoes on the opposite side. Most people would fall into the former category and this superstition may date back to the time when shoes were very expensive. Where wearmarks are found under the toes then the owner was considered a flirt. Again as with all superstitions there may be so justification as from the 11th to the 14th century, men wore long toe shoes which could extend 24 inches beyond the foot itself. These shoes became a phallus and amorous men put them to lascivious purposes. Shoes which squeaked were thought to be worn by people who did not own the shoes (ie borrowed or stole them ) or had not paid the shoemaker. Generally squeaking shoes were a sign of good luck.